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漫步谷崎《幼年时代》(2)

[CAM] 2017年9月19日09:00

在《铠甲桥》的公告板上,引用了谷崎润一郎的《幼年时代》。在这个引用部分的前后,很好地描写了周边的风景。

 

 铠甲桥是1872年(1872年)架桥。1888年(1888年),市电被架设在钢骨制的托拉斯桥上,从大正到昭和在桥上行驶过。1957年(1957年)架设在现在的东西上(《知识百科》;26)。 《幼年时代》是从1955年(1955年)4月到次年3月在杂志《文艺春秋》上连载的,所以“铠甲桥老化被拆除了”,这是在这个更换之前的事吧。

 谷崎家在短时间内转移到浜町后,转移到了南茅场町。

 
引用了《幼年时代》的铠甲桥说明版

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 我只在浜町的家里花了几个月,到1891年秋为止,好像转移到了南茅场町的四十五号。・・・・・

・・・・小时候听说过“铠甲桥以前叫做铠甲的交付,明天这里没有桥”,但是现在下游建了一座叫茅场桥的桥,铠甲桥因为老化而被拆除了,所以才恢复到了我没能生的以前。

 

 从小网町来过原来的铠甲桥,右边有兜町的证券交易所,左边的第一条路叫表茅场町,并行的下一条路叫做里茅场町。・・・・・・・

 

 即使来到茅场町,也不会被母亲和老奶奶带去每天去本家玩。距离和浜町的时候差不多,大约五六丁吧。从里茅场町出发,从胜见的横丁到表茅场町,穿过铠甲桥向小网町方向左转,然后马上右转,穿过米屋町。我和老奶奶的脚也只有十五分钟左右的路,虽然是没有电车和汽车的时代,但是越过铠甲桥的时候必须要走向宽广往来的一侧的人道,所以为了不被人力车轧,老奶奶拼命地注意了我。那时的桥比路面高一层,有坡度,从桥上跑下来的人力车因为惰性而不能急停车,意外地发生了危险的事情。铠甲桥是当时市中不多的铁桥之一,我觉得新大桥和永代桥等还是古老的木桥。我往常在桥的中途停下来,眺望日本桥川的水流,但是我把脸强加在铁栏杆上,注视着桥下出现的水的面,看上去不是水流去,而是桥在移动。我又从茅场町渡过,总是怀着不可思议的心情,看着位于上游兜町岸边的涩泽邸的像伽说唱一样的建筑物。现在明天到处建着日证大厦,原本在那条河边的出来鼻上,正好与石崖接壤,威尼斯风的走廊和有柱子的哥特式的殿堂在水中建着。在明治中期的东京正中央,谁的想法建立了那样异国古典爱好的邸宅呢。对岸的小网町河岸上排列着几栋仓库的白壁,在那头鼻子稍微拐一下就马上就是江户桥和日本桥,只有那一个廓像石板印刷的西洋风景画一样,散发着远离日本的空气。但是,与周围的水之街并不一定是不钓到的,从前面的水流中来往的货足船、传马船、达磨船等,和缆车一样和谐,真是太妙了。(《南茅场町的第一家》;73)

 
 We lived at the house in Hama-cho for only a few months, moving to No.45, Minami Kayaba-cho, sometime before the autumn of 1891. ・・・・・・

I remember being told as a child that there had been a ferry-crossing where Yoroibashi bridge then was; now the bridge is gone again, torn down because of dilapidation and replaced with the new Kayababashi bridge further downstream. Thus in a sense we have come full circle, back to what things were like in the old days, before I was born.

 Coming from the direction of Koami-cho, at the point where the old Yoroibashi bridge crossed the river, you saw the Kabuto-cho stock exchange on the right. The first road to the left was called Kayaba-cho 'Front Street', while the next, paralleled to it, was 'Back Street'. ・・・・・

 Even after the move to Minami Kayaba-cho, I still went almost daily to visit the main house with Mother and Granny. The distance was no more than it had been when we were in Hama-cho ―some five or six blocks. We passed from 'Back' to 'Front' Kayaba-cho vis the Katsumi side street; crossed Yoroibashi bridge and turned left toward Koami-cho; then turned right and passed thorough the rice dealers' district. It took only fifteen

minutes, even for Granny and me. There were as yet no streetcars or automobiles about, but Granny always warned me to be careful not to be hit by a rickshaw as I crossed the wide road beyond Yoroibashi bridge to get to the pavement on the other side.

The bridge was at that time raised somewhat higher than the surface of the road, and sloped down to meet it; and the rikishaws that sped down the slope often found it impossible to make sudden stops, so it could be quite dangerous. Yoroibashi was one of the not-so-numerous steel bridges then in Tokyo, while Shin Ohashi and Eitaibashi bridges were still made of wood. I used to stand in the middle of it and watch the flow of the Nihombashi River. As I pressed my face against the iron railings and gazed down at the surface of the water, it seemed as if it were the bridge and not the river that was moving.

Crossing the bridge from Kayaba-cho, one could see the fantastic Shibusawa mansion rising like a fairly-tale palace on the banks of Kabutocho, further upstream. There, where the Nissho Building now stands, the Gothic-style mansion with its Venetian galleries and pillars stood facing the river, its walls rising from the stony cliff of the small promontory on which it had been built. Whose idea was it, I wonder, to construct such an exotically traditional Western-style residence right in the middle of late nineteenth-century Tokyo? I never tired of gazing at its romantic outlines with a kind of rapture. Across the river on the Koami-cho embankment were lined the white walls of innumerable storehouses. Though the Edobashi and Nihombashi bridges stood just beyond the promontory, this little section of Sitamachi had a foreign air, like some scenic lithograph of Europe. Yet it did not clash with the river and surrounding buildings-in fact, the various old-fashioned barges and lighters that moved up and down the stream past the 'palace' were strangely in harmony with it, like gondolas moving on a Venetian canal・・・        (54)

 
铠甲的交付痕迹的说明版,渡口一直持续到1872年(1872年)架设铠甲桥为止。(《知识百科》;25)

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从铠甲桥上面临茅场桥。这座桥的南端附近,以前被称为茅场河岸,是切茅草堆起来的放置场所。和今天茅场町的由来一样,桥名也由此而来。现在的桥是由于旧桥的老化而在1992年(1992年)架设的(《知识百科》;25)。

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从日本桥小网町越过铠甲桥面临证券交易所

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前面是日证馆大楼,前面的树木是兜神社,前面的高层建筑是日本桥钻石大厦

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