我去了瓦煎饼的有名店人形町龟井堂先生。
在日本甘酒横丁十字路口向浜町公园方向前进数十米的右手边。
One of the most famous and established Japanese confectionery is Kawarasenbei made and sold at Ningyocho Kameido. The head store is located along Amazake Yokocho Street.
其实我不喜欢瓦煎饼。 但是,在收到人形町龟井堂先生的瓦煎饼之后,这个概念就被颠覆了。到现在为止吃的东西是什么呢?为什么这么不一样呢?我毫不犹豫地向社长佐佐木先生提出了朴素的疑问,他满脸笑容地回答了我。
“我们公司坚守创业以来的制法。 不使用砂糖、小麦粉、鸡蛋、蜂蜜以外的材料。 另外,完全不使用保存费,过了3天的袋装人偶烧会从店里取下来。”干脆地说了。 遵守传统贯彻品质管理好像是美味的秘诀。 保护门帘是这样的吧。
For long time, Kawarasenbei, which is the nomenclature of the traditional japanese bisquit, was not one of my favorite sweets, but after I have experienced Kameido's delicacy, my whole image of this bisquit have changed. What have I been eating before? Why is this so good and special?
Mr. Kenji Sasaki, the president of the company gave me an answer distinctly and that is;
"We have not changed the recipe ever since company's foundation. We only use sugar, flour, egg, and honey. No preservative included and no display if the product (packed ningyoyaki) is over 3 days."
So, traditional recipe and strict quality control may be the key points.
然后从社长那里得知了人形町龟井堂的由来。
1873年,从在神户元町创业的龟井堂总店,1929年,由从江户初期开始住在东京的世家人形町佐佐木家嫡流的分支机构委托的是第一代人形町龟井堂的主人佐々木显发先生。 是挥毫写着京桥柱子桥名的佐佐木支阴的孙子。
另外,佐佐木支阴的父亲信浓守显发是幕府末期的重要人物,也是大身的旗本。
The first Kameido store, famous for its product Kawarasenbei, had started its business in Kobe in 1874. In 1927, Mr. Sasaki's grandfather Genpatsu Sasaki was given privilege to use the name "Kameido" and start a business of his own in Tokyo after many years of training.
Genpatsu's grandfather was Shiin Sasaki who is famous for the calligraphy of the Kyobashi bridge pillar.
Genpatsu's great grandfather, Shinanonokami Akinobu who was great grandfather of Genpatsu was high ranked magistrate during Edo era.
朝散大夫信浓守显发()
幕府末期历任江户南北町奉行和外国奉行,通过落语的《佐佐木政谈》可以知道名奉行的样子。
另外,总店还提出了从朝廷宣布信浓守任官的朝廷的宣旨。
相当于人形町龟井堂初代店主佐佐木显发的曾祖父。
Shinanonokami Akinobu
During Edo era, Akinobu was high ranked magistrate bugyo in charge of finance, law, and foreign affairs. His management competence is known through Rakuko (Japanese comic story), "Sasaki Seidan (political talk)". He was honored by Emperor as Shinannookami. The written imperial order can be seen at Ningyocho Kamiedo.
Akinobu is the great grandfather of the founder of Ningyocho Kameido, Genpatsu Sasaki.
佐佐木支阴(佐佐木香)
信浓守显发的长子、汉学家、诗人。 挥毫的“京桥”的柱子至今仍作为“京桥碑”在银座中央大道赋予风格,被指定为中央区的区民有形文化遗产。
我是佐佐木显发的祖父。
Shiin Sasaki
The firstborn son of Akinobu who was scholar and poet. The name of the Kyobashi bridge engraved on the pillar of the bridge which is registered as tangible cultural asset of the city of Chuo-ku, had been written by Shiin.
Shiin is the grandfather of the founder of Ningyocho Kamiedo, Genpatsu Sasaki.
佐佐木显发
人形町龟井堂的第一任店主。 虽然是士族出身,但从小就担任佣工,在幕府相互理解后的混乱、大正大地震、昭和大战等动荡时代,以机智和才智成功地跑过,是一个成功的快男孩。 被神户的龟井堂总本家的创业者和上野龟井堂的主人认可,被任命为一家店。 《～龟井堂物语～东京下町物语》是显发的三子佐佐木雅发从父亲那里听取总结的记录文件,详细记述了当时的街道、明治后半期到昭和高度经济成长期的史实,是一本作为历史书也能享受的书籍。
显发相当于现在社长的祖父。
Genpatsu Sasaki
The founder of Ningyocho Kameido. Though born in noble family, Genpatsu had to make a living after the great reform of the government. He had gone through the confusion of Meiji era, survived the great earthquake of Taisho era, and lived through the World War of Showa era, and won his success with his wit and talent. After years of training, he was given privilege to use the name "Kameido" and start his own business in Tokyo. Genpatsu's biography "Kameido Story" written by his third son can also be enjoyed as a history book which also writes about the culture and historical events from Meiji to Showa.
Genpatsu is the grandfather of Mr. Kenji Sasaki, now president of the company.
人形町龟井堂的瓦煎饼、人形烧是在总店大楼3楼和6楼制作的,随时都可以买到刚做好的东西。 而且,瓦煎饼既轻又方便携带,而且在常温下可以保存3个月,所以不论季节都作为礼品被视为珍宝。 瓦煎饼各包装2~3片,所以不用担心湿气。 另外,从社长的想法中诞生的使用国产花生的柿子皮大受好评,据说也有顾客一起购买。 因为为了维持品质没有量产,所以建议尽早去买。
Kawarasenbei (japanese bisquit) and Ningyoyaki (sponge cake filled with red bean paste) are freshly made at the upper floor of the store. Kawarasenbei is made without any perservative, neverthelesss keeps at least for two months. It is wrapped in a small portion to avoid moist. Since Kawarasenbei is so light to carry, many people buy them for souvenirs.
The current popular selling line is Kakipea (peanuts and spicy rice crackers mix) using peanut only made in Japan, which came through the idea of Mr. Sasaki. Since it is so crispy and good, some customers buy them in bulk. To keep the good quality of the product, Kakipea is not produced in large quantitiesass, so if you buy them, visiting the store in early hours is recommended.
因为商品种类丰富,所以会犹豫,但是可以给我一些适合用途的选择方法。
Varieties of products are displayed, but you can have an appropriate advice at the store.
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(摘自《～龟井堂物语～东京下町物语》)
Quote from "Kameido Story"
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最近,谷崎润一郎和松子夫人也来买东西了。 穿着黑色印花裤的谷崎没有进店里,而是站在人行道的边缘仰望店铺的招牌,有时像是在偷看店里的关系,松子夫人很亲切地进入店里,说了很多话。
In these days, *Junichiro Tanizaki visited the store with his wife Matsuko. He wore black inverness coat, did not get in to the store but stood at the edge of the sidewalk, looking up at the signboard, sometimes peeking inside. Matsuko walked in and chatted with the shopkeeper.
*Junichiro Tanizaki: Japanese author, one of the major writers of modern Japanese literature.
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谷崎润一郎夫妇是在家里吃瓦煎饼的呢,还是作为特产带去的呢,一想到能吃到和当时一样的味道就有点开心。
Did Tanizaki and his wife tasted the sweets at home or did they brought it to someone as a souveniour? Kawarasenbei that you can have now tastes as same as their time.
佐佐木社长,非常感谢。
请永远把美味的点心送给世间。
Thank you very much Mr. Sasaki!
A great appreciation for the great story.
